The Camino de Santiago had been on my radar for years, since 2019 when some friends of mine from here in Australia had walked the first section of it, from France into Spain. These pals had since walked most of the Camino Frances route, as well as the Camino Portugues from Oporto. Now, finally, I became an empty nester and was able to join them as they completed the walk. Hooray!
The last 200 km of the Camino de Santiago stretches from Ponferrada to Santiago de Compostela. In this article you’ll find information, advice and photos from our walking holiday. Myself and three friends did this section of the Camino over nine days of walking at the very start of April.
April is a terrific time of year to do this part of the walk as it is not very busy with other walkers, and the weather is not too hot; in fact, it was pretty chilly when we set off each morning. Bring a woolly hat!
PS I quickly learned that there are many, many pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela. The route we were walking is often called the Camino Frances and is the most busy and best known route. I’ll use that term interchangeably with Camino de Santiago.
Table of Contents
Quick Camino Q+A
Did you walk with just one small backpack?
No, we did this Camino de Santiago walk in a fairly luxurious style. We had our bags moved from hotel to hotel for us by a company called Camino Facil.
Did you stay in albergues or hotels?
We stayed in hotels and we had pre-booked them all. I have my very organised friend to thank for that. She had walked the first 600 km of the Camino de Santiago over two previous walking holidays and had used a company to book hotels for her, with luggage transport. This time, she decided to create the route and research all the hotels by for herself and us. Thank you, friend! This saved a LOT of money for us.
Did you have a day off in your walking schedule?
We did not, we walked every day for nine days. It was fine!
How any kilometres did you walk every day?
Usually between 18 – 24 km. There were some days when the route was for a longer walk, but we did jump into taxis for the last three to five km on a couple of days. No shame in that.
Getting To Ponferrada
From Australia, I flew first to London and then to Madrid where two friends had arrived direct from Sydney. Our fourth friend flew into Barcelona and explored for a few days. We all took trains to meet in Leon in northern Spain, and then hopped onto a local train, arriving in the city of Ponferrada.
On our first evening we caught a taxi to the charming small village called Molinsecca, this would have been a pretty place to stay.
We stayed the night at the AC Marriot Ponferrada, which was fairly nondescript but in a handy part of town for starting our walk next day.
Day 1. Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo
Day 1 of walking, Ponferrada to Villafrance del Bierzo – which is the most delightful town. We did 23 km or so, maybe 25 km, through countryside mainly, also some suburbs. We saw so many lovely houses, some modern and many old. The last 10 km or so is through vineyards (very dormant at the moment). Posada Hotel in the main square is terrific. The bath very welcome. Good dinner of trout at a local restaurant off the square. Feel I can barely move my legs now. Paralysed! Hard to imagine walking a single step tomorrow. Highlights; coffees after about 10 km, the knitting young American pilgrim, and the bucket lights at the place we had lunch – a grand old building.
In Villafranca del Bierzo we stayed at the Posada Plaza Mayor.
Day 2 Villafranca del Bierzo to Las Herrerias
Day 2 I was awake before 6am but had slept all night. Today we walked from Villafrance del Bierzo to Las Herrieras, it was about 20 km and mostly alongside a river which was broad and deep and rushing, clean water and a beautiful bottom that almost looked as if it has been laid out with bcolourful flat stones.
Most of the day’s walking was on a path that ran alongside a small road, sometimes we had to walk on the road. Coffee after 10 km and lunch at about 15 km (I have got a blister and started treating at lunch time.). I could barely walk, again, when we finally arrived at the beautiful building where we were to stay. This area is positively Alpine, field of cows with bells, so sweet. Terrific dinner: kale and bean soup, veggie cannelloni and rice pudding, plus bread. Just what we need for walking!
In Las Herrerias we stayed at the Paraiso Del Bierzo.
Day 3 Las Herrerias to Triacastela
Day 3. This was the walk mas dur, as someone had said to us, the hardest day. They were correct. It was 8km uphill to O Cebreiro. The path was a damp and leafy, through mossy forests all misty with rain, quite rocky and rough at times, some parts were very steep at the side. I was listening to a podcast on The Last Of The Vikings and was summoning my inner viking, just trudging on slowly. We stopped and sheltered at a small cafe about 2 km before O Cebreiro and then trudged on through the rain.
I felt done in and too damp, so I caught a taxi (35 euros!!) the 20 km to Triacastela. I might not have if it had not been raining. Others walked on. I went to pharmacy and got washing done and dried and did some work that needed done. All emails replied to – yes!! And a lie down then… legs are sore, blister looks ok, not too sore, but muscles are. Days should be sunny now.
Had dinner at the hotel restaurant, paella and wonderful cheese and honey. In Triacastela we stayed at the Hotel Complexo Xacobeo.
Day 4 Triacastela to Sarria
Day 4. The mornings have their own rhythm now. With a spare bed in my room, it’s easy to spread the suitcase out and to pack and repack it. Downstairs by 8am and we eat brekky and then start to walk around 9am. It was a clear day and we walked from Triacastela to Sarria, just a mere 18 km or so, the vast majority on paths by fields and through forests. Lots of steep downhills.
The countryside is deep green and lush, lots of trees not yet getting going. We saw gambolling calves and lots of mini billy goats gruff close to Sarria. Very fat cows, very lush fields. Lots of dilapidated buildings in the villages though, and not many villages, just some tiny ones. We did find an old building with a cafe where we had coffees and croissants just before midday and then walked again and had some lunch on outskirts of Sarria. Lots of walking and my calves were itching and ankles in pain. Used bamboo calf sleeves to combat the small signs of vasculitis (common problem for walkers, the compression calf sleeves fixed it.).
In Sarria we stayed at the Hotel Alfonso where we also had a large and healthy dinner.
Day 5 Sarria to Portomarin
Day 5. We walked 23 km today – a long way with a big climb up and what felt like a shorter way down but evidently was not. It was cool and dark grey and very misty when we left Sarria, walking over the bridge across the river by the hotel and starting the uphill climb. There were lots and lots of other walkers including some school groups and some big coach loads of walkers from Ireland. This was such a change from the past few days where the path has been pretty quiet. But Sarria is where lots of people start, just walking the final 115 km of the Camino de Santiago.
Most of the walking was through woodland and past fields and through farms and tiny hamlets, all noticeably more set out for tourists here. We had three stops, coffee and lunch and arvo tea. I changed boots at lunch and had a blister. By afternoon tea time the skin was worn away and I changed to Birkenstocks for the final 4 km, which felt endless. We saw lovely sleek fat cows and some horses and some enormous hound dogs too, plus lots of decrepit buildings. Some eateries are very flash, quite different to the places we’ve seen before.
At Pousada de Portomarin, a BATH… thanks goodness. We walked 9am to 5pm. I kept up mostly but slowed down at the end. Hard last walk up the hill to the hotel. Poor legs. Used black calf sleeves again and legs got no worse.
Sunny and warm after the mist burned off, needed hat and sunscreen. Very rural and arable, lush fields, daisies, the foliage starting to come out on oak trees, wee birds tweeting sweetly. Divine.
In Portomarin we stayed at the Pousada Portomarin.
Day 6 Portomarin to Palas de Rei
Day 6. Today was Portomarin to Palas de Res, where we stayed at the very cool Hotel Trina. We walked about 18 km then jumped in a taxi for the last few kilometres. The morning was hard, very steep. We saw many, many other walkers, loads of school kids, some very noisy indeed. It got pretty hot too.
After both coffee and lunch, I totally felt I could never walk again – frozen up… glad to get a cab and to chill at that lovely modern-looking hotel with blond wood everywhere. We ate just down the road at a little local restaurant, sitting outside in warm sunshine. Lovely. I was so relieved to bail our and catch that taxi. It was so hard walking the last bits, my legs were boiling hot, feeling full of blood even with the compression stockings.
In Palas de Rei we stayed at the Hotel Trina.
Day 7 Palas de Rei to Aruza
Day 7. Today was a much more gentle undulating walk with just a couple of steep sections, overall very pleasant and mainly good paths through fields and woods, the odd stream to cross on stone bridges, delightful and much easier than the past couple of days.
We stopped for coffee after about 6 km and then for lunch at 15 km and did another 5 km before jumping into a taxi again for just the last few km. The path is much, much busier now but only one lot of young kids with noisy music.
We are at the Arzua Hotel in Arzua on a warm afternoon, trees bursting into bloom, did not wear beanie first thing in morning even. This hotel has a bath – what a joy.
At lunch saw I have a blood blister on little right toe but luckily not sore. Did a couple of km in Birkenstocks. Left food blister is still sore but had nurofen at brekkie and lunch and have not been as affected as before. And it’s not even that bad anyway. Fab restaurant just up from hotel – easy!!
In Aruza we stayed at the Hotel Aruza.
Day 8 Aruza to O’Predrozo
Day 8. Maybe I am getting used to the walking. A couple of times today when I got up from a chair I could walk easily without feeling I had to crank every joint into gear. Finally!!! Our morning coffee was a joy, sitting outside with fresh orange juices, coffees and pastries. Heaven. Nice stop for lunch too.
The path is through lots of beautiful farm land and through forests, including lots of eucalypts which is a surprise.
in O’Predrozo we stayed at Pension Maribel.
Day 9 O’Predrozo to Santiago de Compostela
Day 9. We are here, and more specifically I am sitting in an old building which is now a laundry whilst clothes tumble dry. Whew!!
Pension Maribel had no breakfast so we got up and met at 7.30am and then walked to the cafe just up the road for coffee, orange juice and croissant. The fresh OJ here is just divine, a lifesaver when we stop for coffee mid-morning but also a good heart starter today.
There were many ups and downs and mostly walking on gravelly paths through more gum tree plantations, and by farms. We stopped for morning coffee and then a rest and fizzy water just before the outskirts of Santiago, after the airport. Had lunch on the way into town at a nice bar but ordered a terrible white bread sandwich – grim.
The walk into the old town was divine, old buildings, tall solid streets, lots of buildings with plants growing in them, cobbled streets and narrow, some smart restaurants and some bedraggled areas too. And then the square – huge, the cathedral – massive!! Quite something, and busy too.
In Santiago de Compostela we stayed at the magnificent Parador de Santiago which I cannot recommend highly enough. It was the most expensive hotel we stayed at, well worth the cost for its magnificent historic buildings and the well-earned luxury. The Parador used to be a hospital for pilgrims. There’s a lot of interesting information to read about the hotel and the pilgrims who were cared for here.
We ate at the Parador, in the most gorgeous dining room, the old stables which has a vaulted ceiling roof. Very posh, with haute cuisine and black aproned attentive waiters to match.
A day in Santiago de Compostela
A day of not walking, what a shock to the system. I’ve only done 6000 steps by 6pm. Weird… I did expect my legs might just scissor around but not so.
The Parador breakfast is included in the price and was excellent. I am totally into this luxury and antique glamour. Marvellous!!
It has been raining all day, so have got wet and felt chilly outdoors. We four later went to have a good look at the excellent museum of Saint John and the history of the pilgrimage, fascinating and well done. Then we walked over to the covered market and had some lunch sitting under an awning. Last natters, it’s going to be a shock not walking and not being with my friends.
Wandered back via chocolate shop. Nice to have downtime. I would love to walk more (after a rest) and am overcome with a sudden urge to walk to Finisterre but will have to wait for the next camino for that.
Useful Books + Apps
The book which my friend used to plan the section of walk that we did was this one.
A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino De Santiago: Camino Frances St. Jean Pied De Port – Santiago by John Brierley. Each day we would read about the walk ahead of us and plan where to stop. The images showing how far we would walk up and down – the elevations – were useful, if a bit daunting.
The most useful app was Camino Ninja, which I do recommend.
This final 200 km of the Camino de Santiago was my first ever proper walking holiday. Not the last. There are many, many pilgrimages which all lead to Santiago de Compostela and I would love to do more of them. Two of my friends have done the Camino Portuguese, inland from Porto to Santiago and they highly recommend that.
I hope this story about our walking holiday might help you plan your own!
Happy walking.
Thank you. Loved reading about the walk.
It was most informative and interesting.